The Role of Rice in Southern Food | Anthony Bourdain’s The Mind of a Chef | Full Episode

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PBS terminal. >> > > ANTHONY BOURDAIN:
In this episode, Cook Sean Brock discovers a necessary component
of Southern cuisine– rice. Specifically,
Make this with anything. It'' s the coolest point. Man, that'' s good.
Carolina Gold rice.

>> > > That ' s right >>. > > BROCK: So I just included a.
little of easy smoked sausage.
and some aged nation pork. I'' ve had this ham hanging in my.
garage for four years. The older pork obtains the much more.
> > BROCK: Little bell pepper,.
green and red. >> > > The concept behind perlou is.
taking all the components and making them support.
active ingredients, not the main event, and creating the texture with.
those components for rice.

>> > > BROCK:'I ' ve been cooking. considering that I was 17 years old, and I put on'' t obtain worried food preparation. for lots of people, but I obtain nervous cooking.
> > Oh, quit it. > > BROCK: So I believe at this.
point we'' ll include the rice. The desired Carolina Gold. Just a little really, truly.
light hen supply. And I'' m also going to include. oyster liquor. We have some actually wonderful,. briny oysters in Charleston.'I ' m going to include. the tomato currently, as well. One point that I ' ve
been. believing a whole lot about recently was simply the concept and appeal of.
a society built around rice, a rice society. And Charleston was.
a rice culture. Then, what do you say,.
from 1930 to 2000, no person was actually expanding.
commercial rice. It wasn'' t part of. the society anymore.What if that

never taken place? Would certainly we be sitting about.
consuming rice red wine? >> > > We would. We would certainly be such a representation. of Asian society. Which brings us to the tacky.
phrase, or the fantastic phrase, depending on who'' s saying it, “” Charlestonians.
are like Asians– they praise their forefathers.
and consume rice.”” (laughing) >> > > BROCK: So the meal has been.
cooking for around 15 mins, and the rice is virtually there–.
That'' s when I like to just kind. And I like the technique of. And simply a little bit of spice, cayenne and simply
some.
Get that going,. allow that rice finish and let the shrimp similar to. gradually, slowly come up.
, if you do this properly.. with a cast iron pan that holds in that warm, you ' ll obtain that very slim layer.
Cooking has to do with utilizing. all your detects.
I can tell the water.
is cooked away and currently the rice is starting to >>. get'crunchy on the base. >> > > That ' s seeming quite good. > > BROCK: The shrimp are pretty. much there which ' s when we add in. the oysters. Season with some lemon juice. And a touch of this hot sauce.
that we make, for acid and a touch of warm. And after that fresh sliced parsley. >> > > Mmm, that smells fabulous. That looks incredible. >> > > BROCK: And then I'' m going
to. put the crunchy things on top. So you can see, that'' s the good. things there, just scrape that.
> > That ' s gorgeous. > > BROCK:.
This goes on top. This is some good, fresh.
environment-friendly onions. Love the method that brightens. it up'. That ' s it.
God, that'' s fantastic! That is great.
This is the taste. >> of the South below.
> > BOURDAIN: A quick background. of rice in the Lowcountry. 1685, rice shows up in the.
South Carolina Lowcountry. Where we'' re
not. 100 percent sure, however all evidence.
factors to West Africa. The location of the Lowcountry.
makes it ideal for rice crops to flourish. Venetians, with their knowledge.
of irrigation, are the first to expand the rice.
in the nests. And Indigenous Americans.
worked the land. Eventually slaves brought.
from West Africa take control of working the areas. And with that, rice not only.
ends up being the main element of the economy.
of South Carolina, it also becomes the main.
ingredient in its food, referred to as the Carolina Rice.
Kitchen area. The rice of choice.
was Carolina Gold, coveted worldwide for its.
premium taste and texture. Quick forward to 1861. The Civil Battle bursts out and so starts completion of rice.
in the South. 1865, the battle ends,.
No one'' s functioning rice fields. Rice ' s decrease proceeds.
of Carolina Gold rice is collected. 1930, the Great Depression.
collections in and America'' s food supply begins.
to decrease and plants,.
like Carolina Gold rice, are abandoned and failed to remember.1943, Uncle Ben'' s rice is. presented to the world and becomes the top marketing rice.
in the nation from 1950 till 1990. 1998. Anson Mills is produced.
by Glenn Roberts with the sole objective of.
reintroducing the globe to Carolina Gold rice and the.
other shed plants of the South. 2004, Glenn develops the Carolina.
Gold Rice Foundation to promote research study concentrated.
on heirloom grains. 2013, Cook Sean Brock can cook.
timeless, Lowcountry dishes with the rice they were meant to.
be served with, Carolina Gold.

>> > > BROCK: This dish is quickly.
ending up being the most popular recipe at McCrady'' s restaurant
in. Charleston. And what ' s ironic concerning that. is it ' s just a bowl of rice.
Carolina Gold rice. This rice entered into Charleston. in 1685, and promptly turn into one of the. essential plants that the Lowcountry ' s ever before seen.
A great deal of individuals state that rice. was accountable for the wide range of Charleston.And this rice is really really,.
very unique. It'' s matured for three years in.
barrels with wild bay plants. These bay plants grow throughout.
Charleston. It'' s part of the taste buds. of the Lowcountry. Therefore this'strategy that ' s. called Charleston gelato, it ' s actually an extremely unique means. to'prepare this rice.
It ' s practically like cooking pasta. in such a way.
You parboil it. I bring the water up.
And you simply leave it there. for about 15 mins.
When we serve this recipe. in the restaurant, the cooks recognize that when it. comes to the pass, for me to taste,. that it has to be ideal.
I would certainly claim 90 % of the time,. they ' re shivering, such as this, to hand me the spoon.
Since if they overcook. the rice, they go outside, I make them call Glenn Roberts and clarify to him. “what they just did.
“You call Glenn Roberts right.
I ' m just kidding. You need to have seen the appearance. It'' s time to drain this,.
this right into an extremely also layer, as thin as you can.
perhaps make it. If you number this up, that'' s going to remain very,. really hot and hold warmth and overcook the rice. I like to place new bay,.
sliding it below. And then some.
actually excellent butter. Simply gives you a little bit.
of that luxury that the rice deserves. This is going to go.
right into the stove at 200 levels. This rice educated me.
an amazing lesson. If it'' s excellent in the field,
. it will be perfect in home plate. Which takes a long period of time.
to learn as a cook. And chefs, chefs, we live.
for minutes like that. Yet you can'' t force those
. moments, they simply occur. And my own occurred.
over a dish of rice. Damn, I simply got deep.
on some rice. (laughing) So, the rice is just taking in.
the butter.What I like concerning the Charleston. ice lotion method– after the rice is cooked,. it remains in single grains.
And the factor I assume that ' s. important is since we ' ve
gone through via this.
Look at exactly how gorgeous that is. Single grain, pearly white,.
perfect little grains of rice. That'' s all you need for.
joy right there. That'' s why they call it. Charleston ice cream, the method it piles up like that. And afterwards we add lots.
of flowers and herbs and sprouts and leaves, so that each bite.
you obtain something different.So to complete it

we include this,. which is benne. Benne came right into the Lowcountry.
in 1800 from West Africa, and for this meal provides.
superb appearance and some actually pleasant.
resentment to cut through the sweetness.
and the butter of the rice. I think why individuals truly.
love this recipe is due to the fact that we enjoy telling.
stories in the South and we love dishes.
that inform stories. And I think the very best tales.
concerning food are the ones that tell a story of a.
specific individual or a location or a time, and this meal.
has all three.It ' s

the tale of rice,.
its journey in Charleston, and the individual, Glenn Roberts,.
that was crazy sufficient to quit every little thing that he was.
doing and expand this plant. To me that'' s why it
' s such. a lovely meal. Hoppin ' John is an extremely', very. simple dish. It ' s rice and peas.
You understand, if you believe regarding it,. every society has rice and
peas. Rice and beans,. something like this. This set is very, very unique because these components. inform an extremely great tale.
I go to a restaurant, I get Hoppin ' John. The rice tasted like cardboard.
The peas tasted like mud,. It wasn ' t the cook ' s fault. At the time in 1998, no one was. expanding Carolina Gold rice.
That ' s why that dish.
tasted dreadful. It was made with substandard rice.
and beans. It ' s a remarkable tale concerning. why we'must maintain and conserve treasure ingredients. Initially we ' ll prepare the peas
. And these are an extremely unique.

cowpea from West Africa.Something that'' s. very, very essential is to saturate them over night to ensure that they soften and it'' s. easier for them to cook. I such as to begin with a little.
little butter. And after that your classic mirepoix. A little bit of jalapeno.
and garlic. And when this is simply, like,.
softened a little bit, you can throw in the peas. Throw that around. And after that some kind of light pork.
brew or chicken supply. So this is going to come.
to a simmer, and then rest there for regarding an.
hour, extremely low warmth, covered. And I'' ll always throw them.
in the alcohol. The fluid therein.
we call pot liquor. And that'' s, like,. that'' s the excellent stuff.
That'' s ' cause truly that fluid. that ' s in there grabs the flavor of. whatever ' s in the pot. Rice time. So currently the rice has.
gradually cooked in the stove, and afterwards our peas, which are.
beautifully braised and soft. After that a little drizzle. of the red pea gravy, which is simply a puree of. that pot alcohol and the peas.And then we normally garnish it. with whatever is fresh
and tasty and lively. Currently, around here, there'' s. a great deal of lovely wild woodruff that has this great tropical.
celery kind of flavor. And that'' s
it,. Lowcountry Hoppin ' John. And it'' s paradoxical that I went.
from tasting this dish, believing it was horrible,.
to it becoming my favorite meal to eat in the Lowcountry. I can eat this.
every day. And these components.
are simply amazing. I'' m right here with Ed Lee.
of Louisville, Kentucky, and today we'' re mosting likely to make. >> barbecue. > > Korean barbeque.
Yes, this is sort of just how I ate. as a kid maturing. This is a rather standard.
Oriental table. You understand, it'' s a starch,. it'' s a barbeque, and it ' s a bunch of pickles.

I know you use these people, too.This is Anson Mills rice grits. You understand, in Asia, there'' s a. massive custom of broken rice. This is the precise very same product. It'' s inexpensive littles rice. that was left over after the milling procedure that.
they would offer to peasants … >> > > BROCK: Yeah, in the.
Lowcountry, this was servant food. Yeah, this was the unsellable,.
unusable by-product of rice manufacturing that was.
discredited. >> > > Which is funny because currently.
we'' ve come full circle where people are really.
wanting this more than the attractive stuff, so … >> > > BROCK: What takes place is when.
it'' s damaged like that, you can see, on my hand, right away the starch takes.
> > I just made this just
the wayMethod > > BROCK: Ah, so fragrant.
it'' s damaged … >> > >'It ' s excellent. >> > > This is the least expensive cut.
of pork, sliced up real thin. It'' s already obtained a little of.
marinade in it, yet I'' m mosting likely to toss Korean
. chili, fermented chili paste. You simply toss like a glob.
of that in there. >> > > BROCK: So this in fact has.
rice in it. >> > > Yup, and it'' s also got.
Fermented soy in it. And just a little bit.
of barbeque sauce that we make in our restaurant. >> > > Simply throw this on the grill.
for a couple of seconds and we'' re prepared to roll. Oh, guy, that'' s >> hot.
That ' s going to taste so great,. > > What ' s the temperature.
> > So this is it. I'' m going to offer you.
like an excellent Korean child … and make you a rice bowl. I like cooking the rice.
in the Dutch oven. You obtain a bit of that.
crisp on the bottom. Take a bit of the pork,.
dump it over the rice. All this nice little grease.
And then actually it'' s up to you–. > > BROCK: So what do we have? It'' s generally boudin except.
> > BROCK: Mmm. > > You understand what I'' ve observed? You like to squeeze.
all your food. >> > > BROCK: What, I do that? >> > > Like really squeeze it hard.So these

are insane due to the fact that I grew up consuming.
this stuff all the time. It'' s basically steamed peanuts,.
It'' s an Oriental variation. And I constantly say it ' s funny,. people always think about kimchi and they assume.
of cabbage kimchi. This is all kimchi. And, actually, to me, kimchi is.
simply the same word as pickle. You can pickle anything,.
> > Gorgeous. My mother would be.
really honored. That'' s excellent >>, isn ' t it? > > BROCK: Oriental food to'me is.
It ' s just like consuming. > > I feel like there ' s a. Southern mindset in food, and there ' s like a Korean.
that line where they intersect.

>> > > BROCK: Yeah. >> > > And where they do, if you can.
type of recognize it and develop foods around it,.
it'' s truly interesting. >> > > BROCK
:. And that ' s your cuisine, that ' s why it ' s so damn excellent. >> > > You recognize what you'' ve. reached do after this? We consume this,.
go get a foot massage and karaoke and call it a night. (laughing) >> > > BROCK: The Carolina Rice.
Kitchen area is what I believe to be the initial real American Creole.
cuisine. It'' s basically two points. It'' s a collection of components that are crucial to healthy.
soil, by means of plant rotations, and it'' s the social impacts.
of individuals that belonged to functioning.
those areas, bringing the rice in and.
mentor agricultural practices. The Venetian rice farmers and the Indigenous Americans functioning.
the field, and obviously in my point of view the.
most significant impact, West Africa. You take those points.
and you enjoy those components travel from those components of.
the globe into the Lowcountry and their trip right into the.
kitchen area of the rice ranch onto the table.
right into the huge house.And that ' s

the.
Carolina Rice Cooking Area. And it is certainly my most significant.
Inspiration right now due to the fact that we'' re. in the center of recovering this cuisine. We'' re right in the middle of.
reconstructing this rice kitchen that is so incredibly tasty and it'' s one of one of the most.
exciting times to be cooking in the South.

And so this'method that ' s. called Charleston ice lotion, it ' s in fact a really unique method. To me that'' s why it
' s such. It wasn ' t the cook ' s fault. That'' s ' cause actually that fluid. > > I really feel like there ' s a. Southern way of thinking in food, and there ' s like an Oriental.

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